RJR Fabrics
contacted me and asked if I wanted to try out their line of Cotton Supreme Solids. OF COURSE I DID.
And it took me a few weeks to figure out how I wanted to use them--I had the
most beautiful stack of solids I've ever seen just sitting on my shelf for a
solid month with no clue how to utilize them. I've been participating in
#theplacematproject swap on Instagram, and used triangles for my first
placemat. I loved the way they looked, so I doodled up a much larger triangle
pattern for these solids.
SUPPLIES:
-Rotary mat, ruler,
and rotary cutter.
-Fabric scissors
-Template plastic*
*When I replaced all
my rulers a month ago, I went searching for a huge triangle ruler. I couldn't
find one ANYWHERE that was bigger than 8" equilateral. What I did manage
to find, though, was
{template plastic}. After a lot of measuring and marking
with Sharpies, I used my dull rotary blade (the one that is used for everything
but fabric) to cut the template out. I wanted 14" tall triangles, so my
template is 14.75" tall. To find the side measurement, I cheated and used
{this website}. All you have to do is put in the height of your triangle and it
gives you side lengths--which this non-math major REALLY LOVES.
FABRICS:
-1/2 yard cuts of 11
different fabrics--5 of those should be low volume/lighter solids and 6 should
be darker/more vibrant colors.
-Between 1/2 and 3/4
yards of fabric for the binding (amount depends on how you do your binding,
which I'll explain in a little bit)
-4.5 yards of fabric
for the backing.
CUT:
Cut a 14.75"x
width of fabric strip and save the excess. They can be used for a scrappy
binding, accents on the backing, etc, but you will need them for one of the
triangles.
With your strips,
use the triangle template you made (or just cut triangles if you have lots of
spare time and you're good with rulers--I am always busy and terrible with
rulers, so the template worked very well for me). You will lay it on the strip
(which is NOT folded in half) and cut.
At the ends, you'll
end up having two halves of triangles. You will need some of these later on!
Don't throw them out or sentence them to living in the scrap bin just yet.
You'll end up with a pretty stack of triangles.
ASSEMBLE:
Once I had the
triangles cut, I made a too-small makeshift design wall with some of my
Quilter's Dream batting. The problem lies entirely in the fact that my batting
is 60"x60" and my quilt is a finished 72x82… Poor planning on my
part. The picture isn't great, but it's important to lay all of your
triangles out to make sure none will be too close to similar colors.
While you are
planning the design, you also need to make your accent block. I cut scraps and
sewed a bunch together, then used my triangle template to cut it to size and
place it in the layout. I find that it's easiest to take pictures of your
layout on a phone or camera, that way when you've sewn multiple pieces
together, you can look back and see where they belong in the quilt top.
As I was finishing
up the binding, I came across a tutorial for glue-basting the triangles to make
them easier to sew. If you're into glue-basting, I say GO FOR IT! I'm still
waiting for my first tips, but I definitely plan on using glue the next time I make
triangles. Bias cuts aren't so great for getting the points to be nice and
sharp.
Sew each triangle
together with your standard 1/4" seam, press toward the darker color, and
line your strips up.
Sew each strip
together.
Ta-da! You have a
quilt top that probably took less than a couple of hours to put together. I
found that the most time consuming part was definitely cutting and finding the
perfect layout. The triangles are so large that it's a quick, easy finish.
What I love about
this layout is that usually, your triangles all have to meet perfectly in the
points. With the way these rows are designed, with the half triangles on the
side edges, there's not as much stress involved. No need to worry about points
matching perfectly if there are no points to match!
BACKING:
If you have the
patience to piece a back, by all means
DO IT!
But I am the laziest
quilter.
I started doing this
a while back to make easy, quick backings. Take your backing fabric, fold it in
half (right sides together), then sew about an inch from the edge of your white
selvedge. When you get to the fold, use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut the
entire fold off. Then use it to cut off the selvedge (and you can save it for
crafts and such!. Now unfold, press, and you have a huge quilt back that took
less than ten minutes to assemble! Yay!
Now find yourself a good, quality batting and baste!
QUILTING:
Here's where I got
entirely too involved. I'm new to free-motion quilting, and I wanted to
experiment a little bit. I also wanted to incorporate straight-line quilting. I
made the incredibly time-consuming decision to quilt each triangle
individually. I do love how it turned out, but it was very time-consuming. The
lighter colors (the shades that point downward) are quilted with straight
lines, and the darker/brighter colors have free-motion quilting. I experimented
a little bit by quilting cursive into five of the blocks--I used lyrics from my
favorite songs by The Avett Brothers.
Sorry in advance for the photo spam.
(Ignore the marker...It will come right off in the wash)
My cousins were visiting for the week, and they wanted to help me FMQ. We drew designs, then I traced them.
I have so many more pictures I'm restraining from showing y'all.
BINDING:
My binding tutorial
is the laziest/quickest tutorial I've ever experienced. If you have one that's
even quicker, by all means, let me know!! First, cut your fabric into strips 2
1/4" wide (you'll need 8 of these strips if you use the full width of quilting
cotton). Then sew them together on the bias and trim scraps.
Press seams, then fold in half. No need in ironing your binding--you're going
to fold it over and wash the quilt anyway! Seems like a waste of time to me to
press it in half. Leave a 5" tail, then start sewing the binding down onto
your quilt with a 1/4" seam allowance. If you sew the binding down to the
front, you'll need to hand sew it down to the back. If you sew the binding down
to the back, you'll need to either hand sew it to the front or pin/clip the
binding down and machine sew to the front.
I like hand sewing
the binding, I find it very relaxing. So I usually sew to the front then turn
it over and hand sew to the back. It helps if you follow the line of stitches
1/4" from the edge, where you sewed the same binding on the other side of
your quilt.
I really wanted to
try new quilting designs on this. I am definitely a beginner when it comes to
FMQ (I need to take a class but I really am the laziest/poorest college student
quilter) so I needed the practice. I'm going to be completely honest with you--this
fabric was AMAZING to quilt with. Last summer, when I hadn't yet realized how
amazing quilt shop quality was compared to the cheap "fabric" store
quality, I had more problems than I could list, but these solids are so
amazing. OH and the best part about these solids? I screwed up when I cut a
couple triangles, so I went to the store to buy more of one color--AND THEY
WERE THE EXACT SAME SHADE. I had so many problems with other solids because the
dye lots can be so incredibly different.
And the best
news about this fabric? You can win a fat quarter bundle of all the colors I
picked out! I call this bundle "Summer Sunrise" (and the quilt
pattern is the Sunrise quilt).
To enter the
giveaway, there are two different ways to enter.
- Leave a comment on this blog
post!
- Repost my original post on Instagram. Must
follow @hayleysews as well as @rjrfabrics. Use the tag #rjrsummersunrise
Giveaway will open Friday, 7/11 at 8am and end Tuesday, 7/15 at noon EST. Open to residents of the US and Canada only.